Thursday, March 21, 2013

Life's a Hoot Shawl








Supplies:  2 skeins of fingering weight yarn (440 yds ea)
Knitting needles:  US 7 circular needles w/40” or 60” cables
Cabling needles
Waste Yarn
Stitch markers, optional
Size 6 beads

Gauge:  Because the shawl is not fitted, there is not a gauge.  If you decide to use bigger or smaller needles, the shawl will turn out bigger or smaller.

Shawl size:  At the base of the shawl it is 8.5” wide.  From outside edge to outside edge at the ends of the shawl it is 57”.
Abbreviations:

K - Knit
P - Purl
K1fb - Knit one front and back
p2tog - purl 2 together
ssk - slip, slip, knit
RS - Right side
WS - Wrong side
C4F - Slip 2 stitches to cable needle, bring to the front of your work, k2, k2 from cable
C4B - Slip 2 stitches to cable needle, carry needle to back of your work, k2, k2 from cable
sb - Insert needle as if to purl, slip bead to front of work (back of stitch) and then purl as usual.

BORDER OF SHAWL:

Slip 42 (50, 54) beads onto your yarn before beginning.  I always thread a few extra, just in case.

With the waste yarn do a provisional crochet cast on.  You will cast on 256 (304, 328) stitches.  256 stitches will have 21 owls, 304 will have 25 and 328 will have 27

Knit three rows (garter stitch)
Row 4 (ws):  k4, p8, *k4, p8; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k to end
Row 5 (rs):   k1, k1fb, p2, *C4F, C4B, p4; repeat from *  to last 4 stitches, 
  p2, k2
Row 6:         k1, k1fb, k2, p8, *k4, p8; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k to 
  end
Row 7:          k2, p3, *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k8, p3, k2

Row 8:         BEAD ROW:  K5, p2, sb, p2, sb, p2 *k4 (p2, sb)2x, p2; repeat                from * to last 5 stitches, knit to end.
Row 9:         k2, p3, *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k8, p3, k2
Row 10:       k5, p8, *k4, p8; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 11:       k1, k1fb, p3 *C4F, C4B, p4; repeat from * to last 13 stitches,       then C4F, C4B p3, k2
Row 12:       k1, k1fb, k3, p8, *k4, p8; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, knit
                     to end

Rows 13, 15, 17, 19:  k2, p4, *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2
Rows 14, 16, 18, 20:  k6, p8, *k4, p8; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k6

Row 21:        k1, k1fb, p4 *C4F, C4B, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2
Row 22:        k1, k1fb, *k4, p8; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k to end

Row 23:  Purl

Rows 24-34 as follows:

Wrong side:  *p2, k2; repeat from * to end
Right side:  *k2, p2; repeat from * to end

Knit two rows
Bind off loosely.


BODY OF SHAWL:

Remove the provisional crochet cast on and slip each stitch individually onto your needles.  You will probably have to “flip your stitches” when you go to knit them.  They will probably be twisted.  Make sure you check.

Once you get your live stitches on your needles, count them to be sure you have the correct amount 256 (304, 328)

Starting on the front of the shawl:
*Row 1 Knit
*Row 2 Purl
Row 3 - K131 (155, 167)  stitches, turn
Row 4 - p9 stitches, p2tog, turn
Row 5 - k9 stitches, ssk, k3, turn
Row 6 - (you will have 12 stitches on the needle) p12, p2tog , p3.  
Continue short rows as established

*If you want to make your shawl deeper continue with Rows 1 and 2 for 10 or 12 rows, then continue on to row 3

When you get to the last 2 rows, you will have 4-6 stitches on each side.  Go ahead and knit (or purl)  to the end of the row, turn and complete the last row.  Bind off.

Block in crescent shape.  When blocking, run wires thru the short ends of the shawl.  Pin down in a crescent shape.  When you block, pin between the “posts” under the owls’ feet.  This will stretch your shawl out and you will not have to pin the top or inside of the crescent down. 

If you want a more rounded shape and not such strong points, after you pin under the owls go back and pin at the bottom of the fence posts inbetween.  This will give the shawl a smoother edge or bottom. 


Friday, March 15, 2013

The Owl Cowl

My daughter is a Chi Omega and she is fascinated with owls.   My mom used to collect owl stuff, so I thought it was only fitting I design a cowl for both.  My mom would have loved it.


OWL COWL
LaDonna Maxwell

1 skein fingering weight yarn
1 size 6 circular needle - 16”
1 stitch marker

sb - slip bead
C4F - Cable 4 front - place 2 stitches on a cable needle, hold in front of work, knit 2 stitches then knit the 2 from the cable needle.
C4B - Cable 4 back - place 2 stitches on a cable needle, hold in back of work, knit 2 stitches then knit the 2 from the cable needle.

String 24 beads on your yarn.

Cast on 144 stitches on size 6 needles using the long tail cast on method.  Join, being careful not to twist.  Place your marker.

Purl 4 rows
Knit 6 rows
Purl 4 rows
Knit 6 rows
Purl 4 rows
Knit 6 rows

Owl Section:

Row 1: p2, *k8, p4 - repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2
Row  2:      p2, *C4F, C4B, p4; repeat from *  to last 2 stitches, p2
Row  3:      p2, k8, *p4, k8; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2
Row  4:      p2 *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2

Row 5:       BEAD ROW:  p2, k2, sb, k2, sb, k2 *p4 (k2, sb)2x,* repeat to last 2 stitches p2
Row 6:       p2, *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches,  p2
Row 7:       p2, k8, *p4, k8; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2
Row 8:     p2, *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2
Repeat rows 7 and 8 one more time.
Row 11      p2 *C4F, C4B, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2
Row 12:     p2, *k8, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2

For the next 12 rows, p2,* k8, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2


Row 25:        P2 *C4F, C4B, p4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, P2
Row  26:        P2, *K8, P4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, P2

Purl 1 row

Knit 6 rows
Purl 4 rows
Knit 6 rows
Purl 4 rows
Knit 6 rows
Purl 4 4ows

Bind off purlwise using a stretchy bind off.

You can adjust the length of the your cowl by adding or subtracting 12 stitches.

You can also increase the size of your owls by adding rows in the body section (rows 13 - 26).  Just keep repeating p2, *k8, p4, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.


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